Sunday, May 15, 2016

TOP 15 sport/trad/top rope climbs in Mendocino County CA.

The TOP 15 sport / traditional / top rope rock climbing routes in Mendocino County, CA.
(and just about the only 15 rock climbs in the entire county ~ lol :)

FA's(First Ascents): CS=Me, JG=John Gruey, JM=Jordy Morgan, NL=Nick Lockwood
~no particular order~  *****=world classic


"Covelocos Corner" 5.10***** corner crack/dihedral {Trad} FA: JG(TR) / ??(Lead)
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Hard to Swallow" 5.12a**** 7 bolts ~ arete FA: CS
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Black Slab" 5.11*** 7 bolts ~ face/slab - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Green Slab" 5.9*** 3 bolts ~ face/slab - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Snakecharmer 5.11** short thin crack/face {Trad} FA: CS
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Mainline" aka "Deadman's Crack" 5.10*** short crack {Trad} TR/lead/boulder FA: CS V1R/X
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Liquid Fire" 5.12a*** 4 bolts ~ steep face FA: CS
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Mystic Rhythm" 5.11*** 3 bolts ~ face FA: CS
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Low Gap Crack" 5.9**** splitter crack {Trad} TR/lead/boulder V0R/X**** highball FA: ??
Low Gap - Ukiah [access unsure]

"Braveheart" 5.10*** 2 bolts ~ short lead or classic highball V1R/X***** boulder problem FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Brave Boulders

"Smoke Crack" 5.10*** boulder crack to gold corner finger crack {Trad} FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"The Shrew" aka "Shit Face" 5.11*** 4 bolts ~ slab face FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"Joint Effort" 5.12b*** 4 bolts ~ slab face traverse - ground up! FA: CS/NL
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"Don't Call Me Squaw" 5.12b*** 4 bolts ~ face - ground up! FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock

"Resurrection" 5.12aR*** 2 bolts ~ short steep bouldery runout face - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock











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