Tuesday, May 24, 2016

My Suggested Hard Local Sport Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty - North Bay Area CA.

Here are My Suggested Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty for the North San Francisco Bay Area for rising up from average 5.10-5.11 climbing into solid 5.12-5.13 sport or from moderate level V4-V6 up to solid more advanced levels of V7-V10 bouldering. Whether for the first time pushing into these higher grades ever or just locally or for coming back from injuries or time off. These are mostly climbs or boulder problems that I have done successfully or done first ascent of or at least tried and heard a lot about over the years. This list is my personal favorites based on easy public access and/or relatively safe protection or landing zones and fairly good to great quality rock and movement. The tried and true well trodden popular consensus graded entry level full value local must-do classic:
~~My TOP 15 Sport / TOP 15 Boulder - total 30:

Sport Climbs
5.11d - 5.12a/b
"Hot Tuna" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Nancy" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Courtney" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach

"Swallow My Pride" 5.12b/c Mt St Helena
"Sea Monster" 5.12b/c Mickeys Beach
"Sea Biscuit" 5.12b/c Salt Point

"Sex Porpoises" 5.12c Mickeys Beach
"Wet Dreams" 5.12c/d Mickeys Beach
"Pseudo Bohemian" 5.12d/13a Sea Crag

"Squid Vicious" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Naked and Disfigured" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Holy Mackerel" 5.13a Mickeys Beach

"Endless Bummer" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Dreams of White Porsches" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Judge Dredd" 5.13b Sea Crag

Boulder Problems
"Fort Rosstafarian" V6 Fort Ross
"Living A Dream" V6 Fort Ross
"SHP Sit" V6 Putah Creek

"Living A Nightmare" V7 Fort Ross
"Hellspawn" V7 Putah Creek
"Little Wing" V7 Stinson Beach

"Nat's Traverse" V8 Berkeley (East Bay)
"Welcome To Whinecountry" V8 Putah Creek
"Orange Buddha Arete" V8 Mickeys Beach

"Wicked" V9 Mt Tam
"Little Wing Sit" V9 Stinson Beach
"Grand Finale" V9/10 (aka Relentless) Fort Ross

"Open Mind" V10 Goat Rock
"The Hard Traverse V10/11 Goat Rock
"Relentless Traverse" (aka Grand Finale) V10/11 Fort Ross

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